Garment pattern



April 1, 1941. C. KAPLAN GARMENT PATTERN l Filed April 5, 1939 INVENTOR CHA/w fa ESE. x35.

ATTORNEY Patented Apr. 1, 1941 GARMENT PATTERN Charles Kaplan, Brooklyn, N. Y., assigner to The National Pattern Co., Inc., New York, N. Y., a

corporation of New York Application April 3, 1939, Serial No. 265,734

6 Claims.

Y This invention relates to garment patterns of the general type and kind disclosed in the application of Henry B. Donning, Serial No. 240,445, filed Nov. 15, 1938; and the object of the present invention is to so construct garment patterns of the type and kind under consideration as to arrange upon at least one of the ends of a long pattern strip or sheet, the markings or pattern lay-outs of predetermined garment parts or pieces so as to economize to the greatest degree upon the amount of material used in cutting the various patterns from a predetermined fabric; that is to say, to effect a saving in the purchase of the fabric in cutting, for example, a dress having a short sleeve rather than a long sleeve design; further to also facilitate the cutting of certain parts of a complete garment from one type or color of material and other parts thereof from rial occasioned by the production of the short sleeved dress. Further, when a combination garment was to be made and constructed of two different `colored materials, or different types of materials, no provision was made for economizing a contrasting material without vthe necessity of any waste in the purchase of both the materials employed and without any confusion to the user of the pattern strip or sheet, and still further in including in such last named garment pieces such trimmings as applied to a dress or garment,

that is to say collars, "facings, belts and the like; i

a vfurther object being to provide a novel method of constructing pattern strips or sheetsof the type and kind under consideration to simplify and economize on the construction of garments as more fully hereinafter described and claimed.

The invention is fully disclosed in the following specification, of which the accompanying drawing forms a part, in which the separate parts of my improvement are designated by suitable reference characters in each of the views, and in which:

Fig, 1 is a plan view of one end portion of a long pattern strip showing one adaptation of my invention.

Fig. 2 is an end view of a pattern strip showing another adaptation of the invention.

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2 showing a further adaptation of the invention, and

Fig. 4 is an end view of a wide sheet from which at least two parts of a complete pattern strip may be formed.

In the construction of pattern sheets or strips of the type and kind under consideration, it has been customary to arrange the various pattern representations on the strip or sheet in a closely nested or compact arrangement with regard to the respective resulting garment parts to be cut by the guides of said pattern strip. From this standpoint, the ability to effect a saving in the lengthof material purchased for the respective on thev purchase of each of the materials employed. The same thing was true with respect to the cutting of various trimmings, facings, belts and the like from materials of different characteristics.

short-sleeved garments as compared with longy sleeved garments.

In the accompanying drawing, I have shown Y for the purpose of illustrating certain adaptations of the invention, a few arrangements of different garment patterns at end portions of a pattern strip. For example, in Fig. 1 of the drawing, one end portion of a long pattern strip I0 is shown, the straight end of which is indicated at II and the broken end of which is shown at At I3 is represented a coupling between two strips, |00., IIlb which may represent two parts of a large wider pattern sheet, one end portion of which is indicated at I0c in Fig. 4 of the drawing. Adjacent the broken end I2 of the strip I0 is a transverse line i4 having thereon the legend Cut here which divides a long pattern strip into a jacket portion I5 and a remaining garment portion I5a, only a very small portion of which is indicated in Fig- 1 of the drawing. On the portion I5a will be represented such garment parts as the skirt, waist, sleeves, etc., and if desired. the sleeves may be arranged at the other finished end of the-part |50.. That is to say, the end portion I6 of the pattern strip shown in Fig. 2 of the drawing may constitute the finished end of the part I5a.

Arranged upon the section I5 of the strip I0 are the'various pattern representations of the jacket of a. garment. For example, at II is shown the jacket front; at I8 the jacket back; at I9 the front jacket facing; at 20 the jacket sleeve; at 2| the jacket sleeve facing; at 22 the jacket shoulder pad; at 23 the front jacket fac ing; at 24 the back jacket facing; at 25 the jacket back neck facing. It will of course be understood that if the styling of the jacket would adapt it for use in short or long sleeves, a still further adaptation of the invention would be in arranging the sleeve pattern 20 at the end I I so that the short and long sleeve combination as taught in Fig. 2 could here also be provided. However, in the present styling, a long sleeve jacket only is desired, therefore its arrangement on the strip section I5 is immaterial.

From the foregoing, it will appear that all of the pattern representations are arranged upon the section I5. Therefore, if it is desired t produce the jacket from a` fabric contrasting to the fabric employed for the other part of the garment, or from the pattern representations on the section Ib, then material is purchased of sufficient length to extend to the line I4 for the skirt and other garment parts, and separate material is purchased for cutting the garment patterns as represented on the section I5. It will be understood, however, that if the entire garment is to be made of one material, the entire strip comprising the sections I5, Ia will be used and will not be severed on the line I4, and sufficient material will be purchased to accommodate the entire length of the pattern strip.

On some of the pattern representations, I have indicated at 26 means for adjusting the sizes of such garment pieces in accordance with the teachings in the application hereinbefore referred to. These tongue and groove markings facilitate lengthening and shortening adjustments of the parts to suit the measurements of the person to whom the garment is to be fitted.

In Fig. 2 of the drawing I have represented the method of carrying my invention into effect in achieving a saving in material of a plain garment in cutting a short sleeved garment rather than a. long sleeved garment. For purposes of illustration, this end portion of the strip has been identified as the end portion of the section I5a of the strip shown in Fig. l, merely to illustrate the adaptation of this same principle to a combination such as referred to in Fig. 1. Of course the invention here is applicable to sleeve garments produced without the representation of jackets, coats or other supplemental garments.

At 21 is shown a transverse cut line designated by the legend Cut here which means that the user of the pattern will cut the pattern strip along the line 21 and will purchase material of a length sufficient to include the line 21 but will save the material between this line 21 and the end I6 of the strip. The latter material is of course required in constructing the garment with long sleeves. Here again the sleeve representation 28 will be provided with a tongue and groove marking 26a for the length adjustment of a long sleeve similar to the markings 26 previously referred to.

In Fig. 3 of the drawing a further adaptation of the invention is shown, and at 29 is illustrated one end portion of a long pattern strip generally similar to the strip I0 with a finished edge 30 at one end thereof. Inwardly of said edge is a transverse line 3| with the legend Cut here to subdivide the strip 25 into a trimming end portion 29a. and a garment end portion 29h. Various trimming pieces, for example, a belt 32,

collar facing 33 and collar 34 will be arranged upon the end portion 29a, so that these garment pieces may be cut from a material contrasting to that of the garment pieces represented on the section 29h. The same principles here represented are applicable to the lay-out and cutting of various other garment parts or trimmings commonly employed in various types and kinds of dress stylings. In each instance, and whereever it is possible so to do, these trimmings, garment pieces or complete garment units are disposed at one finished end of a long pattern strip for the purposes stated. These long pattern strips are usually folded compactly or arranged in a roll so as to facilitate the laying of the pattern strip longitudinally of a fabric in accordance with the teachings in the application heretofore referred to. From this standpoint, it is desirable, in order to simplify the lay-out and cutting of the pattern pieces from the garment, to dispose these, what might be termed alternative garment pieces, at the terminal ends of the long pattern strip.

In Fig. 4 of the drawing is diagrammatically illustrated one end portion of a wide sheet, as at IIJc, from which two parts 35, 36 of a resulting unitary strip may be formed by severing the wide sheet along the perforated line 31 and joining the ends of the sheet 35, 36 in the manner illustrated for example at I3 in Fig. l of the drawing. In other words, the strip 35 might constitute the strip section Ia and the strip 36 the strip section Ib in this illustration. However, it is pointed out that the finished end .38 of the strip part 35 would have between it and a cut line representation at 39, a section upon which sleeve, facing, or other pattern representations would be arranged, whereas the end 40 of the removable strip 3B would have suitable guide markings 4I to match corresponding guide markings on another strip to be attached thereto in gluing such strips together to form the long pattern strip.` It will be understood that any number of these strips may be coupled together depending upon the pattern of the garment arranged thereon. Furthermore the lengths of the separate strips may vary.

The edges 42, 42a of the strips 35, 36 are the edges of the resulting pattern strip which are arranged at the fold of a fabric and would be similar to the edge 42h of the strip I0, the edge 42o of the strip shown in Fig. 2, and the edge 42d of the strip 29 of Fig. 3; whereas the edge 43 of the strip III, 43a of the strip shown in Fig. 2, and 43h of the strip 29 would be equivalent to the edge formed by the line of perforations as at 31 in Fig. 4 of the drawing. This will clearly appear from the arrangement of the pattern representations on the strips in question.

It will of course be apparent that the features of my invention are applicable to pattern strips or sheets of any type or kind wherein all of the pattern representations are printed or otherwise applied to at least one surface of the sheet so as to facilitate the compact cutting of the various garment parts represented by the patterns, from a suitable fabric with the greatest amount of economy, While at the same time maintaining a proper arrangement of the patterns with respect to the fabric. It will also appear that on some occasions, the entire auxiliary or supplemental garment parts may be arranged on one strip 0l sheet length; for example, may be arranged on a strip or sheet beginning at the end II Fig. 1 and terminating at I3 in said figure. Instructions may be given not to attach the strip Illa to the strip lllb if the patterns on the strip Illa are to be formed from a different or contrasting material to that of the patterns on the strip lb, or any other strips that may be attached thereto in forming a unit part thereof.

It will be understood that the transverse line having the legend Cut here, need not necessarily be a straight line, but might be irregular to clear certain pattern pieces. However, it is preferred to arrange the pattern pieces to provide a straight transverse cut, if it is possible to do so, simply to economize on the length of material used.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

l. An elongated pattern strip having pattern representations extending throughout the length of said strip representing all of the patterns of a complete garment, a group of pattern representations for predetermined associated garment parts being disposed at one end portion of said strip, and said strip being marked transversely to distinguish said group from the remainder of the pattern representations on the strip lto facilitate formation of said grouped patterns at one end of the strip from a fabric contrasting to that from which the remainder of the patterns of said strip are to be formed.

2. An elongated pattern strip having pattern representations extending throughout the length of said strip representing all of the patterns of a complete garment, a group of pattern representations for predetermined associated garment parts being disposed at one end portion of said strip, said strip being marked transversely to distinguish said group from the remainder of the pattern representations on the strip to facilitate formation of said grouped patterns at one end of f the strip from a fabric contrasting to that from which the remainder ofthe patterns of said strip are to be'formed, and said group of pattern representations at the end of the strip representing the trimmings of a garment.

3. An elongated pattern strip having pattern representations extending throughout the length of said strip representing all of the patterns of a complete garment, a group of pattern representations for predetermined associated garment parts being disposed at one end portion of said strip, said strip being marked transversely to distinguish said group from the remainder of the pattern representations on the strip to facilitate formation of said grouped patterns at one end of the strip from a fabric contrasting to that from which the remainder of the patterns of said strip are to be formed, said group of pattern representations at the end of the strip representing a supplemental part of a combination garment.

4. An elongated garment pattern strip of the class described having arranged longitudinally thereof representations of all the pattern pieces required .in forming a garment, said pattern pieces being arranged in substantially rectangular groups disposed in end-to-end relation, said sheet having transverse markings intermediate said groups, and said groups each including all pattern parts to be cut from one fabric whereby in employing two or more fabrics in a garment, a minimum amount of each fabric may be used.

5. An elongated garment pattern strip of the class described having arranged longitudinally thereof representations of all the pattern pieces required in forming a garment, said pattern pieces being arranged in substantially rectangular groups disposed in end-to-end relation, said sheet having transverse markings intermediate said groups, said groups each including all pattern parts to be cut from one fabric whereby in employing two or more fabrics in a garment, a minimum amount of each fabric may be used, one of said groups including the pattern pieces for the main garment, and another of said groups including the pattern pieces for a supplemental portion of the garment.

6. An elongated garmentpattern strip of the class described having arranged longitudinally thereof representations of all the pattern pieces required in forming a garment, said pattern pieces being arranged in substantially rectangular groups disposed in end-to-end relation, said sheet having transverse markings intermediate said groups, said groups each 'including all pattern parts to be cut from one` fabric whereby in employing two or more fabrics in a garment, a minimum amount of each fabric may be used, at least one of said groups having arranged at an end portion thereof pattern pieces adapted to be selectively employed in a plurality of ways in making different type garments, and said strip having other markings transversing said last named pattern pieces and characteristic of said different type garments whereby a minimum amount of fabric may be used for the particular type of garment desired.

CHARLES KAPLAN. 

